4/4/12 - Kalaloch Campground to Hoquiam / Aberdeen

I broke camp around 8, taking a good amount of time to dry some items under the bathroom's hot air dryer (one of my new most favorite things in the world).  I grabbed a coffee and had some oatmeal at the little market next to where I had dinner the night before.  It rained lightly for the next couple hours.  I made it to Lake Quinault, the book's destination for the day, around 1pm.  If I haven't mentioned it yet, I am using Bicycling the Pacific Coast by Kirkendall and Spring as a guidebook.  In case my blog is so captivating that you feel the need to do this tour I highly recommended it due to the great routes, helpful tips and fun side trips.  Alright, back to what I was talking about before I stopped talking about it.  Hikes around the lake were suggested but due to the great weather so far (get while the getting's good) and the desire to make good time in Washington so that I could have more to spend in OR and CA, I soldiered on after a luxurious gas station lunch. 

Not far past Humptulips I pulled off at a gas station to rest, and yes, eat again.  As I was about to head out a truck pulls up in front of me and a man jumps out yelling "you're #1, you're #1".  It's good to know my reputation precedes me even out here.  Apparently I was the first touring cyclist of the season since this guy, Fred, keeps an eye out for them and talks them up every chance he gets.  Fred
was a character if I have ever met one.  We talked for well over an hour - so much for getting while the getting's good).  He was tall, wiry, and almost 70, or as Fred so elegantly worded it, "S**t, I'm this close to kicking down 70's f***ing door".  He talked fast and often, with an opinion on everything.  He was the last of 34 children.  Yep.  Made him repeat and then explain that one to me.  He said his Dad was trying to out breed the Catholics.  Every time he spoke of someone he mentioned their zodiac sign and then went on to explain how that shaped the person they were, usually in a bad way.  He was foul mouthed and very funny.  I wish I had more time to shoot the bull with him but I was far from that days sleeping spot and day light was a wasting. 

I made it into Hoquiam / Aberdeen around 6 and stopped at the first Motel I saw after crossing the bridge - Topps Motel.  Very small, clean place that was just what I needed.  I took a shower, dropped off some laundry and headed down the road for some pizza. 

Go Aberdeen!!!

Bike stats:  75 miles

4/3/12 - Fairholm Campground, WA to Kalaloch Campground, WA

I woke up to the sound of rain around 7.  Soon after starting out the rained turned to snow.  It was very wet, heavy snow that accumulated quickly.  Luckily the roads did not become icy.  Cars were considerate for the most part and one lady in a truck even asked if I would like a ride (just moments after a cop car buzzed me).  I did have one scare when my front tire slid off the raised shoulder that was hidden in the snow, I lost control of Carrie and veered into the lane.  No cars were on the road right then but the thought of crashing to the ground was enough to get the blood pump going.  My clothing held up for about 30-45 minutes but was eventually soaked through, making for a rather chilly ride. 

Typically the tires stay one behind the other

I rode into Forks around 1pm and encountered my first mechanical - a flat front tube.  A nail was the culprit and it took a little longer to get the new tube in the tire that I would have liked.  I was trying to make good time and this was not helping at all.  While fixing it I heard from Jeffrey that the Dallas area had been hit hard by tornadoes.  Thanks for the instant dose of perspective, Universe.  I called around to make sure everyone I knew was okay but they had no cell coverage.  It was a frustrating couple of hours and I was later relieved to find out that everyone was safe and sound. 

My first view of the Pacific was at Ruby Beach in Olympic National Park.  She's absolutely beautiful, with countless sun reflecting rows of waves and a deep blue vastness that stretches out for miles.  I spent some time enjoying the view but since it was on top of a cliff I was anxious to move on and get to an actual beach.  Not far down the road was Kalaloch Campground, the days destination.  It was pretty crowded with RV's and some actual campers and everyone I met was very friendly.  Upon arriving I seemed to have peaked my new neighbors curiosity.  When I was done stripping layers off and had shoes that allowed me to walk and not waddle like a penguin I made my way over to them.  We had a nice long chat about where each of us were from, our journeys so far and where we were heading.  Afterwards I set up camp and headed down the road about half a mile for dinner.  I got back to camp shortly before sun down and walked along the beach for a while before calling it an early night. 

View from the dinner table

Campground

Beach down the bluff from the campground

Bike stats:  62 miles

4/2/12 - Victoria to Fairholm Campground, WA

I got up around 7 after sleeping off and on for a few hours.  My stomach was really bothering me with sharp pains through the night, waking me several times.  Chances are some of the food I ate the night before came into contact with shrimp.  I left Chris and James' around 8:15 and headed toward the harbour.  Spent some time riding around and admiring the Parliament Building prior to boarding the 10:30 Coho Ferry to Port Angeles, WA.

I rode out of Port Angeles onto Hwy 101 around 12:30.  There were mostly rolling hills for about 15 miles with some moderate climbs, after which the descent to Crescent Lake in Olympic National Park was a welcome relief.  The lake was beautiful and provided many places to rest and admire the scenery.  It was formed by a glacier and has a handful of mountains that rise up along its shores. 

Crescent Lake

I took a break from the saddle to hike a few miles to see Marymere Falls, also within the N.P. 

I made it to Fairholm Campground, located along the west shore of Crescent Lake, around 5pm.  The park was closed until Memorial Day Weekend but I was able to ride in and camp.  It was interesting to see how much the forest takes over in just a few months, with the roads nearly covered in branches and leaves.  Unfortunately the bathrooms were locked and there was no running water.  I set up camp and slept about 12 hours. 

Fairholm Campground

My thoughts on Canada: everyone I interacted with was very friendly and welcoming.  They were intelligent, gregarious and opinionated.  They seemed to be happy with they government and the way things were being run (something I was not used to seeing).  They were worldly and had positive perspectives, even with the issues they felt needed to be addressed.  Other than the people, some of the things I noticed in Vancouver and Victoria included very clean streets, no homeless people, flashing green lights, very courteous drivers and a strong cycling community that was out in numbers, rain or shine.
Ride stats: 40 miles

4/1/12 - Vancouver to Victoria

Got up a little before 7 after a night of little rest.  I said my goodbyes to Johnny and Andras and hit the road, promptly taking the first wrong turn of what I am sure will be many and headed 10 blocks in the wrong direction.  Downhill.  Carrie handled quite differently once she was loaded down, with a substantial amount of wobble that made it difficult to ride.  I laughed as the thought of spending 5 weeks in Canada came to mind.  Once I got back on track getting out of Vancouver wasn't all that difficult due to Andras' great directions.  I made it to the bus stop where I would catch a ride to the 11am ferry to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island with plenty of time. 

Andras and I

Not far from the ferry docking port in Swartz Bay I began riding the Galloping Goose Trail all the way to Victoria, about 24 miles.  It was a difficult ride due to a slight headwind (doesn't take much to affect a touring bike), lack of sleep, small hail and being unfamiliar with a fully loaded bike.  Upon arriving in Victoria I asked for directions to Chris and James', whom I also met through warmshowers.org.  Along the way I stopped to watch about 20 minutes of a pretty good high school soccer match. 

Chris and I

When I got to Chris and James' I exchanged pleasantries but quickly let Chris know that I needed a nap.  He must of thought "This guy is planning on riding to San Fran?  Good luck.".  I slept for about 90 minutes and felt much better afterwards.  I walked down the street to pick up some toiletries and when I got back some of their friends had arrived.  We all walked down to the harbour where they showed me around and took in the sunset before heading to a pub.  Chris had done an epic tour about a year ago and had some great stories and advice for me.  I had a really great time getting to know each of them, most of whom were 1st year law students.  My timing was good because they had final exams in about a week and were taking a momentary break from living in the library (where some crazy lady throws away their fridge food!). 

Bike stats:  38 miles (kept resetting the computer so no average, max speed or total saddle time).

Vancouver Island Parliament Building

Vancouver Island

Route from Chris' Tour

3/31/12 - Vancouver

Got up, got ready and began the hour long stroll to Dream Cycle - such a fitting name for the shop where I get my touring bike!  They did a custom fitting and then set up my racks while I hung out at a cafe down the street.  With the bike properly adjusted and fully assembled I began the maiden voyage down Commercial for some groceries.  Fittingly enough it was raining.  After picking up groceries I rode around, playing lost and found with the route back and giving myself time to get used to how Carrie (my stunning new Salsa Vaya) handled.  I then went shopping for some cycling pants, bike computer batteries and a sleeping pad. 

When I got back to Andras' I packed up the panniers for the first time and loaded Carrie up.  I was very relieved to find that all my gear fit since up to that point I was just assuming / hoping that it would.  Over dinner and some beers I had some great conversations with Andras and his roommate Johnny, who is an independent film director about to shoot a pilot for the show 'Destination Shop'.  We discussed everything from hockey (of course), cycling and the ways our countries differ, including government, healthcare, taxes, educaton, health and wellness, work ethic, cost of beer, consumerism and much more. 

I went out for a walk around 10pm, looking for a cool bar to hang out at and have a few drinks at since I knew that trying to get to bed early would be futile.  After a good bit of walking and checking different places out I settled in at Five Points.  I began talking with a really nice girl, Joanne, about a lot of the same things I had discussed early with my hosts.  She was very opinionated and would get pretty worked up on some issues, like how most Americans think of Canadians.  I pretened to act offended until she bought the next round.  It was a lot of fun. 

3/30/12 - Vancouver

I landed in Vancouver around 8:30pm.  While getting off the plane I spoke with some friendly people about how to get where I needed to go.  One of the people I was talking with said she lived nearby and would show me the way.  I got through customs with no hassle and waited for my checked box at the carousel.  And waited.  Eventually the carousel stopped moving.  No box.  A bit of panic came over me as I approached the lost baggage booth.  After waiting in line for about 20 minutes I overheard a worker ask someone if it was a box they were looking for.  I interrupted them and said that I was looking for a box and she pointed to the far end of the checked baggage area.  Disaster narrowly averted. 

I carried my large box and back panniers (that's 'pan yays' for my Texas folk) out of the airport and towards the Canada Line, a light rail.  After arriving at my stop I asked for some directions and began the hike to Andras' place.  Andras was a guy I met on warmshowers.org, a site set up for housing touring cyclists.  It took about 30 minutes due to my gear being so cumbersome and heavy (can't wait to get that bike so she can do all the heavy lifting).

Once I arrived Andras gave me a tour of his and his roommates place and where I would stay, a very comfy couch.  We stayed up and talked for about an hour until he went to bed, which gave me time to rummage through my bags and get settled in.

Newest member of the family:

Behold, Carrie: my pantry, closet, gym, truck and entertainment for the next 5 weeks.  She's as strong as she is beautiful. 

Let the fun begin